Visit our Lot in Washington C.H., Ohio today and ask about our latest addition of Steel Structures that can be built on your level site, graveled drive, or concrete slab in 4 weeks or less!
It is the mission of H&R Enterprise, authorized distributor for ABC Metal, to be a leader in the metal component industry by providing superior products and professional service to its contractors and customers! Whether you are a local contractor or customer in the Central & Southern Ohio Valley, or beyond, and wish to buy best quality, UL Listed metal roofing/siding products at the most competitive price then you need to Contact Randy @ (877) 937-2666 for your next project! Our quotes are FREE and we can even assist in calculating your roof/wall dimensions! We also offer locally Affordable, Quality Building Packages and Access to our Metal Roof Installers! Small or Large we are here to serve our Contractors & Customers for all their Roofing & Post Frame Building Needs……..Call Today!
Raising Roofing Standards Since 1908
[kad_youtube url=”https://youtu.be/4eMUrlBkSpM” width=640 height=480 ]
Contact H&R Enterprise @ (877) 937-2666 for a *complete pricing list of Grip Rite Products for your job!
*call or contact us for stock availability
The JackJaw®200 easily pulls ¾” and 7/8” form stakes used in concrete Applications, “T” fence posts, and string line stakes. This taller model (29” tall) allows you to pull stakes without bending over.JackJaw® stake extractors pull stakes straight up out of the ground without bending them or breaking the fresh concrete, even when the stake is flush with the top of the form. A 50lb push on the handle generates a massive 1050lbs of gripping force and a 450lb upward breakout force on the stake. Contractors can now drive the top of the stakes below the top of the form, allowing them to finish the concrete faster by screeding over the top of the forms. With the low grip height of the JackJaw® stake extractor, the contractor can easily pull the stakes, even when driven below the top of the form. This tremendous leverage prevents operator back injuries. The patented JackJaw® Extractors are manufactured in the USA from heavy gauge steel plate and tubing to withstand everyday job site use. The easily replaceable jaws are case hardened AR400 steel for long wear. No paint to chip. JackJaw® units have a zinc and clear chromate plating for long lasting durability and corrosion resistance.
[btn text=”BUY HERE!” tcolor=#FFF link=”http://getthemax.com/shop/new-products/jack-jaw-200-stake-extractor/”]
FLAT RATE SHIPPING ANYWHERE IN THE CONTINENTAL USA $22.50
The video below shows application instructions for all penetrating sealers, using V-SEAL 102 on broom finished concrete as an example.
The main goal for application is to get as much sealer into the substrate without having any dry on the surface. Surfaces should be saturated, and excess sealer should be removed or pushed into the next area that will be sealed. A pump up garden sprayer, paint roller, shop broom, or squeegee are all acceptable tools for application of a penetrating sealer.
- Over-application of any and all reactive penetrating sealers will cause a white chalky appearance that will wear away in time, or can be removed with abrasion. Solvents will not remove reactive penetrating sealers.
- Under application will result in partially sealed concrete, brick, or stone. If water can still soak in and darken the substrate, not enough sealer was used, and another application may be necessary.
- The ‘beading effect’ may fade over time, as the concrete is worn in, but water should not soak in and darken the substrate. Over time, concrete will make water ‘sheet’ instead of ‘bead’ on the surface.
[btn text=”VIEW & BUY V-SEAL PRODUCTS” tcolor=#FFF link=”http://getthemax.com/product-category/residentialcommercial-products/concrete-sealers-coatings/”]
There are many stamped concrete sealers to choose from. Which one will work best for your stamped concrete is what I’ll help you figure out.
Sealing stamped concrete is a very important step to maintaining its durability and beautiful appearance. If the concrete is sealed correctly, it will help protect the stamped concrete from damaging water, chemicals, stains, oil, and freeze/thaw cycles in colder climates.
There are two basic types of stamped sealers, one is a penetrating sealer the other is a film forming sealer.
A penetrating sealer does actually penetrate the surface and react chemically with the concrete to protect against moisture and deicing salts. It fills the micro and macro spaces, solidifying the entire substrate into one solid mass.
These prevent rain and moisture absorption, allowing water to bead up on the surface. The sealed surface is very easy to clean and stays cleaner longer. This has the lowest maintenance and reapplication costs of other sealers.
Penetrating sealers are UV resistant and most allow moisture vapor to escape the concrete.
Use a penetrating stamped concrete sealer for outside and inside stamped concrete where a matte finish is desired. If you don’t want a wet, shiny look this is the sealer to choose.
FILM FORMING SEALERS
Film forming sealers do just what their name implies, they form a protective film over the surface of the concrete.
Film formers are the most popular choice for decorative stamped concrete because they enhance the colors in the concrete and leave a gloss or sheen look to the concrete.
Acrylic film forming sealers are the easiest to apply. They can be used on interior or exterior stamped concrete.
Acrylic sealers provide good protection against water and chemical damage. They are UV resistant, non yellowing, fast drying, and come in high or low gloss levels. Acrylics offer a softer surface and are usually the least expansive.
Urethane film forming sealers go on about twice as thick as the acrylic sealer and provides excellent protection against chemicals and abrasives.
These are very good for high traffic areas, really enhance the beauty of decorative concrete, and can be used on both interior and exterior stamped concrete.
Epoxies will give you the hardest, longest lasting, chemical and abrasive resistant finish of all the stamped concrete sealers.
They bond very well to concrete and are generally used for interior applications. They are less UV resistant and may yellow if exposed to the sun. Epoxies are great sealers for high traffic areas and very easy to maintain. Before installing any sealers to stamped concrete make sure the surface is completely dry and clean from dirt, dust, oil, and grease.
Applying the sealer correctly will make clean up easier and offer very good resistance to harsh weather conditions, mold, and bacteria growth.
Cleaning and sealing concrete should be done on a regular basis. The frequency will depend on how high a traffic area to cars or foot traffic the concrete is exposed to.
There are many good brand name stamped concrete sealers on the market. Knowing these basics will help you choose the right one for your application.
How to do a Stamped Concrete Overlay
Decorative concrete overlays are a great solution for interior or exterior concrete flooring. A concrete overlay can be very thin, 1/16th of an inch or up to 1/2 an inch or more depending on your situation. On the page below Days Concrete Floors explains how to do a thin decorative stamped concrete overlay over a concrete floor.
This stamped concrete overlay I’m going to talk about is a project done at the Sugarloaf Mountain Ski Resort & Hotel in Carrabassett Valley, Maine.
|Sugarloaf Ski Resort Sign||Sugarloaf Resort Hotel|
They had 20 year old tile and carpet in the hotel and were looking to update the flooring with decorative concrete. Because they only had 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch to work with they chose a stamped concrete overlay that would look like fieldstone or mountain rock.
What the lobby floor looked like before starting.
Carpet down the halls and in front of all the elevators for 6 floors
This entire project entailed about 4500 square feet of decorative concrete flooring and included most of the lobby floor and parts of floors two thru six.
The first step was to remove the old carpet and tile. The carpet pulled up rather easily and the tile chipped off using a hammer drill, but the challenge was removing the glue left over by the carpet and the thinset from the tile.
Grinding off the glue and thinset by machine and by hand
We chose to grind off both the glue and thinset from the concrete floors using hand held grinders and floor grinding machines. This was much quicker than using mastic removers. We wanted to get this stuff off the concrete floor so we could keep moving the project along.
After the glue and thinset was gone, we could start preparing the floor for the concrete overlay. We acid washed the entire floor with muriatic acid, (9 parts water to 1 part acid), then we neutralized the acid with 9 parts water mixed with 1 part ammonia. We vacuumed the entire floor to remove all the water and were now ready to start the decorative overlay process.
We used Elite Crete’s products for this decorative concrete overlay. They have polymer modified concrete overlay products that are very strong & durable and can also be colored and/or stained to just about any color.
Elite Crete’s Texture Pave and Thin Finish were used.
The first coating we applied was a skim coat to prepare the concrete floor for the stamped overlay material. Make sure to dampen the concrete in front of the skim coat. This skim coat (called Thin Finish by Elite Crete) goes on very thin using a magic trowel. We coat the entire area that is going to receive the stamped overlay and let it dry completely.
After the skim coat is dry, the next step is to lay the stampable concrete overlay material called Texture Pave. First, we apply another skim coat over the previous skim coat, but while it is still wet we apply the decorative overlay material right on top of it. This creates a really good bond to the concrete floor.
Using a gauge rake we rake the material to 1/4 inch thickness over the entire area. The lines left by the gauge rake are smoothed out using a magic trowel on a long handle (kind of looks like a rubber squeegee). After all the concrete floor is covered with the overlay material we let it dry enough so it’s firm but not too hard. Now, we texture the concrete using rubber stamps with a stone textured finish on one side. We spray on a clear liquid release agent so the stamps don’t stick to the material and lay the stamps on the overlay material pressing the texture in using our feet. This is where experience pays off, you don’t want to get on the material too early or too late, timing is critical. If you’re going to try this start on something small.
When the decorative concrete overlay material is all textured, we let it dry until it is hard enough to walk on but not so hard we can’t carve in the grout lines. We hand carved the grout lines in this project, that is what the hotel owners wanted. Random looking hand carved stones that was unique and didn’t duplicate a pattern. You could use stamps that have all the lines as part of the stamp if you like.
Hand carving the grout lines made this project very unique
Once all the grout lines were carved and the stamped concrete overlay material looked like large fieldstones, we sprayed on three different colors to make the stones look like real rocks. The main color was beige, we flooded the entire material with this color, and we highlighted with the colors chocolate and charcoal by randomly spraying these colors in different areas.
We flooded the decorative concrete overlay material with a beige color first and immediately sprayed the other two colors randomly into the wet beige color for a unique mottled effect.
We let the color dry overnight and the next day applied a coat of 2 part epoxy to the tops of the fieldstones making sure we didn’t get any epoxy in the grout lines. We used a fast setting epoxy (4 hrs set time) so we could grout the lines between the rocks the same day. As you can imagine grouting took some time, there were a lot of lines. The grout really made the rocks stand out and added to the decorative look of the floor.
This is what the floor looked like just before we grouted the lines. We had to be careful not to get any epoxy into the grout lines before we grouted otherwise the grout would not bond to the substrate.
After the lines were all grouted and completely dry (overnight). We applied another coat of fast set epoxy, let it dry, then a coat of urethane with a non-slip additive. They didn’t want the floor slippery with all the skiers walking on the floor in the winter.
We grouted the lines with Elite Crete’s Thin Finish material
The floor came out great, the decorative concrete overlay material from Elite Crete is very strong (6500 psi), durable, and easy to apply if you have the proper training.
All the materials we used for this decorative concrete overlay, the coloring, epoxy, urethane, and concrete overlay material was supplied by Elite Crete of New England. Special thanks to John Massery and Jeff Blazek of Elite Crete for all their help and support.
If you enjoy skiing, Sugarloaf is one of the premier Ski areas in Maine and New England. Check it out and let us know what you think of the decorative concrete overlay.
H&R Enterprise, distributor for V-Seal, offers a Complete line of Sealers, Stains, & Hardners to Protect your most Prized work!
Don’t See it on our site? Visit V-Seal website and then contact us for Contractor Pricing!
Answers to frequently asked sealer questions from a technical expert
Owners of newly installed concrete are often told by their contractors to seal the concrete. What they usually aren’t told are the basics, such as why they should seal it, the best product to use, how to apply it, and suitable applications. Answers to these questions aren’t easy to come by when you shop for sealers at a building supply store or on the Internet. Instead, you’re typically bombarded with a confusing array of performance claims and scientific terms.
To give you some simple answers to the top 10 sealer questions asked by users, we contacted Bill York, technical advisor at V-SEAL Concrete Sealers, Lewis Center, Ohio. Here is his plain-language advice for new installers
- What surfaces should I seal?
Exterior concrete in any region subject to freeze-thaw cycles should be sealed (see these regional climate maps). Many people are surprised to learn that freeze-thaw regions include all of New Mexico, most of Texas, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, and even portions of California, Louisiana and Florida. In other regions, concrete should be sealed for specific purposes such as stain repellence, dust reduction, abrasion resistance, chemical resistance or to maintain an attractive appearance.
- What happens if I don’t seal my concrete?
Concrete is a porous material that readily absorbs liquids. In freeze-thaw climates, the expansion of frozen liquids can destroy the surface of unsealed concrete. Oil, salt, fertilizer, and other household chemicals can discolor and damage unsealed concrete.
- How much does sealer cost?
Acrylic-resin sealers and chemically reactive penetrating sealers (silanes, silicates, siloxanes and siliconates) generally cost $0.15 to $0.25 per square foot. High-performance topical coatings, such as epoxies and urethanes, will cost more — typically $0.50 to $2.50 per square foot. In most cases, the investment in a sealer is well worth the expense, when you consider that the cost to replace concrete is generally $7 to $8 per square foot.
- How will my sealed surface look?
That all depends on the type of sealer you apply. Most chemically reactive sealers are nearly invisible because they penetrate into the concrete. Solvent-based acrylic resin sealers and epoxies provide significant color enhancement and give concrete a high-gloss wet look. Water-based acrylic resin sealers provide moderate color enhancement and a satin appearance. Urethanes (generally applied as topcoat over epoxy) are available in a wide range of finishes, from matte to gloss. Many sealers can also be colored with translucent or opaque tints.
- How is sealer applied, and can I apply sealer myself?
Many sealers can be applied by a do-it-yourselfer using simple tools, such as a paint roller of pump-up sprayer. These include acrylic-resin sealers, reactive penetrating sealers, 50%-solids epoxies and 50%-solids urethanes. High-performance sealers such as 100%-solids epoxies, polyaspartic urethanes and polyureas require professional installation using special tools and application techniques.
- When do I apply sealer?
Most acrylic-resin sealers and certain reactive penetrating sealers (siliconates and silicates) should be applied as soon as new concrete can withstand the weight of the installer. Other reactive penetrating sealers (silanes and siloxanes) and most high-performance coatings, such as epoxies and urethanes, should only be applied after the concrete is fully cured (generally 28 days). Almost all sealers can be applied after concrete the is 28 days old.
- What will my sealer repel?
Again, that depends on the product you use. To repel water and deicing salts, use an acrylic-resin sealer or reactive penetrating sealers. If you also want to repel oil stains, use a siliconate (a type of reactive penetrating chemical sealer). Be aware that acrylic-resin sealers may be weakened by petroleum distillates, and reactive penetrating sealers are generally weakened by acidic chemicals that chemically etch concrete. For resistance to these substances, use a high-performance epoxy or urethane system.
- Will sealer make my concrete slippery?
Reactive penetrating sealers generally have little effect upon the concrete surface profile or traction. Most topical coatings can affect concrete surface profile, and may require the use of anti-skid additives in areas exposed to foot or vehicle traffic (see Making Concrete Slip Resistant).
- How long will my sealer last?
Because they penetrate the concrete, reactive chemical sealers will last the longest and generally only wear away if the substrate surface itself wears away, which may be 10 years or longer. You can get similar performance by using an epoxy or urethane system, which generally lasts 5 to 10 years depending on traffic exposure. Acrylic-resin sealers offer the shortest performance life – generally 1 to 3 years.
- Is sealer environmentally friendly?
Concrete is locally made and can last for many decades with proper care. As sealers extend the useful life of concrete, they are an important component of “green” building and their use can qualify for additional LEED points. As for the sealer itself, water-based products are generally considered the most environmentally friendly. Some solvent-based sealers can’t be sold in certain states, but new environmentally friendly solvents are now available. Contact your concrete sealer supplier to learn more about the regulations in your state.